Operation Auburn Blazer

 Cashmerette recently released the Auburn Blazer, a tailored jacket with princess seams and welt pockets, and clearly I needed to make one. I adjusted everything to fit on three sheets of Arch E paper (36x48) and swung by the office to plot it out. Then I traced the body pieces onto medical paper and pinned it to my dress form Hazel. 

Pattern pieces pinned together on my dressform

Back view with 1/2" horizontal tuck at center back

Side view with no tuck - back hem is lower than front

The front princess seams is a little wonky, but I think part of that is trying to pin two opposing curves in paper. Also Hazel doesn't have exactly the same bust shape that I do. I'll have to review that area in the actual muslin. 

The back is a little bit long right off the bat - I took a 1/2" fold at center back and it lies much better. This is not surprising - Cashmerette patterns have some swayback built in, but my body has a lot, so having to make a 1" swayback adjustment doesn't shock me. 

The shoulder also is a bit funky - I'm not sure if all the extra space at the top will be taken up by shoulder pads or not. I had to do a sloped shoulder and a forward shoulder adjustment on my Jasika, but the shoulder angle of both pieces is different here so I'll just have to see how it fits. I'm expecting to need to do at least a sloped shoulder adjustment, but maybe not.

I still need to trace the sleeves, and then I can go on to an actual muslin! 

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