Blazer of Glory part 3

 Having achieved a successful muslin, the next step is tracing off all of the pattern pieces and making sure that the alterations I made to the main pieces are transferred to the lining and interfacing pieces as well. This is a bit tricky, since there are a lot of pieces and they don't always follow the exterior pieces completely. Particularly since I did the swayback adjustment up at the top of the pattern not at the center back there will be some intersection between back lining and back facing to contend with. 

Helpfully, the blazer fitting book Closet Core has available lists all the pieces, and suggests that you mark up what will need to be changed. This is what mine looks like, with the approximate line of the changes. I'll check each piece off as I trace it, so I know I have all the required pieces traced.

Pattern pieces showing red marks for required adjustments

The one thing that I have changed from the last muslin is the shoulder slope/forward shoulder adjustment. I originally made it all to the front piece, which mostly worked, but did mean that the back armscye was shorter than the front (since I didn't change the back piece at all, and swung the front and side panel to meet it). I re-drew that change in two steps, first doing the 2" sway back, then the 1/2" shoulder slope (dropping the back armhole) and then extended the shoulder up 1/2" to shift the seam line forward. This ended up with the shoulder line in the same place, but the bottom of the arm hole dropped from where it was originally. I did the same on the front, and then adjusted the side panel symmetrically instead of pivoting to the corner in the back. It's a minor change, but I think it will make the armscye fit better all around.

I'm not sure if I'm going to do another muslin at this point - I might call is a small enough change and just go for it!

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